With a metropolitan population of 83,770, the second-largest city in Alaska is low-rise and sprawling. Despite its somewhat ordinary appearance, it has a certain charm and many log cabins can be seen tucked into the trees, as well as a sizeable population of sled dogs. Located at the center of the state, Fairbanks is the military, transportation, and market core of the interior. Prudhoe Bay, the oil gusher, lies 390 miles north.
The Alaska Hwy was constructed in 1943 as an emergency passage for American troops following Japanese occupation of the Aleutian Islands during World War II. In addition to troops, Native Americans, prospectors, and fur traders also worked on the road, completing it in just eight months. Later, 70 companies and 16,000 civilians labored to turn it into a year-round, all-weather route. The highway is now much used for scenic tours and provides travelers with spectacular views of the Alaskan wilderness starting in Canada in Dawson Creek, British Columbia, through the Yukon Territory and Delta Junction to Fairbanks. Spruce forests, mountain passes, lakes, rivers, and glacial ice formations, as well as bears, moose, and other wildlife, can be seen.
Fairbanks was founded in 1901 when Tanacross goldfield supplier E.T. Barnette became stranded by low rivers and set up a trading post. Shortly afterward, an Italian prospector called Felix Pedro found gold nearby. The word spread and by 1908, more than 18,000 people had settled in the Fairbanks Mining District. The railroad arrived in 1923, reviving the flagging gold industry by bringing in muchneeded dredges. Eventually, more than $200 million in gold-sourced revenue was made here.
World War II attracted military construction and personnel, but with the 1973-77 construction of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline the city hit the economic jackpot. Subsequently it tumbled economically until tourism and the Fort Knox Gold Mine, just north of the city, provided a boost in the 1990s. In 1998 Fort Knox produced $170 million worth of gold.
Part of Fairbanks’ appeal lies in the independence and individuality of its residents. Compared to other Alaskan cities, it is a more affordable place to stay than Anchorage, if not as charming or as picturesque as Homer and Juneau, with their decorative mountains, glaciers, and seas. Summers here are pleasant but winters are cruel, with temperatures dropping to as low as -60\260F.
The Northern Lights, a solarpowered light show in the upper atmosphere, appear here an average of 240 nights a year. Downtown Fairbanks features Golden Heart Plaza, a park on the river with a statue commemorating an Athabascan family. Historic buildings of interest include the log St Matthew’s Episcopal Church and the Immaculate Conception Church, set off by its attractive stained-glass windows. Early artifacts are displayed in the Fairbanks Community Museum.
Alaskaland, a pioneer theme park, is the city’s largest attraction. Displays include the Nenana, a former sternwheeler in the Yukon River fleet; the railroad car that carried President Warren Harding to the golden spike ceremony to celebrate the completion of the railroad in 1923; and a century-old carousel that still offers rides. Also on the premises are a gold-rush town, the Pioneer Air Museum and a Native Village Museum. The Palace Saloon offers visitors entertainment and a noted salmon bake.
The University of Alaska, Fairbanks, is known especially for its research into agriculture and mining. It is worth visiting the campus not only for its impressive museum, but also, when weather conditions are favorable, for its extensive views across the Tanana Valley. The University Museum has interesting displays examining the geology, history, and special aspects of the area. Its most famous exhibit is Blue Babe, a 36,000-year-old bison preserved by permafrost. The university’s Agricultural Experimental Farm produces enormous vegetables as well as researching crops that are able to thrive in the harsh conditions of the very short Alaskan growing season.
Eight miles north of the city there is a viewing spot for the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, which carries a daily flow of 1.5 million barrels of oil to Valdez. The Alyeska Pipeline Visitor Center is located here. Other attractions include panning for gold at Gold Dredge No. 8 and the El Dorado Gold Mine, and 3-hour trips on the sternwheeler Discovery III which navigates the Chena and Tanana Rivers. Guides discuss wildlife, history, anthropology, geology, and local customs. There is a stop at an Athabascan village, and impressive views of the surrounding wilderness.
Thirteen miles northeast of Fairbanks by Steese Hwy is the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Satellite Tracking Station, which has been important to the US space program. It tracks, commands, and receives telemetry and imagery data from polar-orbiting, Earth-observing satellites which are used to gather data for global environmental monitoring and weather forecasting. Guided tours are available to visitors here. Fairbanks is the northern terminus of the Alaska Railroad and the 1,523-mile Alaska Hwy, 360 miles from Anchorage via the George Parks Hwy. It can also be easily reached by bus, train, or plane.