With a population of just 2600, WRANGELL, the second stop on the ferry system, is altogether quieter than Ketchikan and has a distinctly old-fashioned feel. Right in the busy harbor, accessible by a short boardwalk, Chief Shakes Island holds an excellent collection of totem poles and a replica tribal house filled with Tlingit blankets. The ancient rock carvings at Petroglyph Beach, half a mile or so north of town along Evergreen Avenue, date back as far as 7500 years and are only obscured during high tide.