photo by gusto

The city of Little Rock is famous for three reasons. First, for 12 years it was the domicile of former president Bill Clinton, during his incumbency as Arkansas’s governor.

Second, it is recalled for Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell’s performance when they crooned about being “two little girls from Little Rock,” in the musical Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. No matter that they weren’t, people still remember the song.

The third reason is more somber.

In the fall of 1957, Little Rock was in the world spotlight when nine African-American students enrolled at Central High School. Though the Supreme Court had ruled in favor of integration, Arkansas Governor Orval Faubus refuted the court’s decision and prohibited their admission. Despite an injunction served on the governor, Faubus sent in the state troopers to prevent the students from attending school. His actions sparked a series of violent demonstrations that lasted for nearly a month until President Dwight Eisenhower sent in paratroopers and the National Guard to restore order to the school and to protect the students. Capitalizing on the public’s mood, Faubus closed all of Little Rock’s public schools the following school year and was duly elected for a second term.

This citadel of the Civil Rights Movement is located on South Park Avenue. Directly across from the school is a preserved 1950s Mobil gas station, now a visitor center.

Its museum has quite an excellent exhibit of the crisis that tested the very foundation of the Supreme Court’s earlier ruling of Brown v. Board of Education, which prohibited segregation in schools in the United States.

Little Rock has always played a pivotal role in Arkansas’s development and it remains the political and commercial nucleus of the state. Its key riverside position has likewise assured the city of a continuation of its present prosperity.

The French first explored the area as early as 1722, and the settlement became an important junction and outpost for fur traders along the Southwest Trail. By 1812, the settlement evolved into a town overlooking the Arkansas River; it became the territory’s capital in 1821. Its fortunes continued to boom until the occupation by the Union army during the Civil War. Following Reconstruction and the westward expansion, Little Rock enjoyed renewed prosperity, which is reflected in the city’s lineup of grand and splendid old mansions.

Downtown’s growing yet rather unimpressive skyline, together with the city’s flourishing population of 183,133 people, give the visitor the impression that Little Rock is on the move. Nevertheless, the city’s appeal remains largely with the visual reflection of its pioneer and Civil War heritage.

The Old State House Museum, located on Markham Street, served as Arkansas’s capital until 1911.

Tours to its legislative chambers showcase its handsome architecture and desks with brass spittoons. The museum also contains excellent historical displays including period costumes and pioneer utensils.

Other grand Colonial Revival and Queen Anne style buildings are located in Little Rock’s historic Quapaw Quarter, primarily along Louisiana and Scott Streets. The State Capitol, which was modeled on the architectural lines of Washington’s famed building, is located on the intersection of Capitol Avenue and Woodland Street.

The River Market District on Markham Street is Little Rock’s main haunt and it is well worth taking a stroll here. The district is teeming with newly sprung restaurants and cafès, along with the city’s traditional farmers’ market. The city also has the fine Arkansas Arts Center, the Museum of Discovery, and the Children’s Museum, located in the Union Station building.

Also in the area is Riverfront Park, an unspectacular yet pretty innercity parkland that leads to the enshrined “little rock,” after which the city is named. One of the more interesting galleries is at the Arkansas Museum of Science and History at MacArthur Park. Housing an exhibit of Native American and pioneer artifacts, it also fosters a strong historical connection. The museum originally served as an arms depot for a federal military post—the same station where the World War II legendary militarist General Douglas MacArthur was born.

Little Rock also hosts a series of cultural events held every year through the University of Arkansas Repertory Theater. Along Main and Markham Streets there is a host of restaurants and bars.

Little Rock is serviced by bus to the key cities in the South and Midwest along I-40 and I-30, and there is daily train service to the city. Little Rock National Airport is just 4 miles from the city center.