Thirty-six kilometres due east of Nova Petrópolis, along a beautiful winding road, is GRAMADO, Brazil’s most exclusive mountain resort. At 825m you’re unlikely to suffer from altitude sickness, but Gramado is high enough to be refreshingly cool in summer and positively chilly in winter. Architectually, Gramado and the neighbouring resort of Canela try hard to appear Swiss, with alpine chalets and flower-filled window boxes the norm. It’s a mere affectation, though, since hardly any of the inhabitants are of Swiss origin – and only a small minority are of German extraction. The most pleasant time to visit the area is during the spring (Oct & Nov) when the parks and gardens are full of flowers, but the hydrangeas remain in bloom well into January. Gramado’s attractions lie mainly within the town itself: excellent and varied restaurants, the large and very pretty Parque Knorr (daily 9am-6pm) and the secluded Lago Negro. The whole region is magnificent but it’s difficult to explore properly without a car.