First with the seminal L.A. restaurant City, then with the early Food Network hit _Too Hot Tamales, _chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger are in relentless pursuit of all tastes Latina. They’ve again employed the architect and artists from their Border Grill restaurants to create a colorful and convivial diversion among downtown skyscrapers. Ciudad delights both day traders choosing viva instead of mere sustenance for a weekday lunch on the patio and the stylish crawlers who find their way only after sundown. Lesser-known libations such as cachaca made from sugar cane, a clear grape brandy called pisco, and a staggering rum menu all wash down the irresistible happy hour chuchifrito, little snacks inspired by South American street vendors. From goat cheese fritters with sherry-soaked cherries to a steak salad with chimichurri dressing to Bolivian tamales with peach mole, the lunch and dinner menus make decisions painful. Sunday is an all-tapas party. Refresh with guava sorbet or, if you have the cojones, go for the Chocolate City Sampler – sweet visits to Havana, Caracas, and Barcelona. Ride the glass elevators at the Bonaventure Hotel across the street for a cheap kick and an excellent view of the city.