There are two ways of looking at this little hole-in-the-wall seafood joint: One, it’s a tiny, divey, irreverent place to spend far too much on a crab salad, or two, it’s a precious piece of San Francisco lore and a fabulous, colorful place to spend far too much on a crab salad. Owned and operated by a succession of Italian families since 1912 and situated in the gritty Polk Gulch district, far from Fisherman’s Wharf, Swan Oyster Depot is listed as a top destination in almost every city guidebook there is. The 17-seat bar with counter service attracts a long line of locals and visitors alike, who gladly wait for up to an hour for a sample of the fresh seafood displayed in the old-fashioned windowed storefront. Note: A couple of beers and friendly banter help Swan’s $16.95 salad go down easier. Note, too, the bar’s odd hours.