Fusion cuisine has a ground zero, and it’s Chinois on Main. Wolfgang Puck first dazzled both Hollywood and foodies alike with his home away from home, Spago. In 1983, Puck continued the seduction with L.A.’s first refined, yet relaxed, East-meets-West restaurant, a place where he could prepare Cal-fresh ingredients using formal culinary techniques. Chinois on Main remains one of the best restaurants in America, and you’ll still need a reservation weeks in advance. It’s jam-packed every night with convivial regulars who can’t get enough of the old favorites, so much so that the menu is divided into seasonal and classic sections. You can’t go wrong, but if you really want to know what all the fuss is about, order the chicken salad and the whole sizzling catfish, two dishes found on many a menu but, make no mistake, these are the definitive versions. The colorful room with its stone floors, turquoise tables and wild flower arrangements gets deafeningly loud, so this ain’t the spot for romantic conversation. In fact, many swear by no talk at all and instead sit at the back bar facing the open kitchen, another concept that was groundbreaking for its day, to watch the Chinois on Main’s chefs whip out what might be the best food you will ever eat.