A thirty-minute bus ride (#890) northeast from Odense takes you to KERTEMINDE, a sailing and holiday centre that has a prettily preserved nucleus of shops and houses around its fifteenth-century Skt. Laurentius Kirke. Across the road from the bus station on Magrethes Plads 1, Fjord & Bæltcentret (July to mid-Aug daily 10am-6pm, mid-Feb to June & mid-Aug to Nov Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm; www.fjord-baelt.dk; 65kr) is a state-of-the-art aquarium with a 50m long underwater tunnel from where you can watch and learn about the sea’s environment. On Strandgade, the Town Museum – Farvergården (Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; 15kr) has five reconstructed craft workshops and a collection of local fishing equipment. Kerteminde was home to the “birdman of Funen”, the late-nineteenth-century ornithological painter Johannes Larsen and a fairly lengthy stroll around the marina and along Møllebakken brings you to the Johannes Larsen Museum (June-Aug daily 10am-5pm; Sept-Oct & March-May Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; Nov-Feb Tues-Sun 11am-4pm; 40kr) – the painter’s house, kept as it was when he lived there, with his furnishings, knick-knacks, canvases and, in the dining room, his astonishing wall-paintings.