BLOIS, the former seat of the dukes of Orléans, is a handsome town with much character. Its biggest drawback is the modern town around the centre, and particularly the broad, fast-moving boulevard that rings its château as if it were a mere traffic island rather than a sensational piece of architecture. There are, however, plenty of places around place Victor-Hugo that offer excellent views of the exterior of the building, Italian loggias and all, and it’s worth braving the traffic for the pleasure of a non-guided visit around rooms steeped in power and intrigue.