Wailuku is the county seat of Maui and, together with nearby Kahalui, forms the largest community on the island. The name translates to “Bloody Waters” and refers to the battle between King Kamehameha I and Maui warriors in the Iao Valley in 1790. Apparently the massacre was so intense that the local stream ran red with blood.

Missionaries settled here in the nineteenth century; many of their buildings still stand. Later, sugar production energized the economy and Wailuku became the hub of commerce, government, and population for the island. Since the 1960s decline of the sugar industry and the growth of tourism in other parts, Wailuku has faded into the background.

Attractions include the Bailey House Museum, a treasure trove of Hawaiian memorabilia. Past this is Iao Valley State Park, a rainforest and canyon in a caldera of the West Maui Mountains; a larger, lush oasis of waterfalls, pools, and hiking trails. The Hawaii Nature Center has many interactive exhibits on the Iao Valley’s natural history.

Kahalui International Airport has flights to the mainland and inter-island flights. Cars are essential. Wailuku has excellent restaurants but lodging is very limited.