This is Chicago. There are a lot of Italian restaurants here, so it’s not easy to impress the locals if Italian is what you’re serving — but Trattoria No. 10 succeeds. This downstairs establishment is a nice combination of comfortable, contemporary, classic and classy. Warm colors and effective lighting make the interior inviting, and the great arches between sections give the restaurant a solidly European feel. The menu changes frequently, and there are daily specials, including both a soup and a risotto du jour (oops, sorry, del giorno), but perennial favorites remain. To start, you can opt for such classics as minestrone and carpaccio, or try a braised rabbit salad. For your pasta course, you might consider farfalle with duck confit, asparagus, mushrooms, pearl onions, and pinenuts or ravioli with butternut and acorn squash in a sweet walnut butter sauce. (Ravioli is a house specialty, and you can order a main-course size, if you don’t fancy the Italian tradition of pasta then main.) Scallopini of natural veal roasted with haricots verts wrapped in prosciutto and lamb rack with Italian sausage-potato hash are secondi piatti worth considering, as are the fresh fish offerings. An excellent, all-Italian wine list has more by-the-glass selections than most places. And the service is warm, congenial, informed, and you really get the feeling they’re glad you’re there.