LETTERFRACK itself is an orderly nineteenth-century Quaker village in a rugged setting. The village is tiny, but there’s good food (especially wholefood and cheeses), and occasionally music, at Veldon’s and discos in The Bard’s Den (Fri & Sat). In the east end of town is the thatched restaurant, Pangur Bán, which has an attractive, eclectic menu including delicious tempura, though for a real culinary treat try Rosleague Manor (tel 095/41101), which serves wholesome and filling traditional food in elegant surroundings. There’s also a post office, phone, shop and bureau de change and the lovely, rambling independent Old Monastery hostel (IHH; tel 095/41132, oldmon@indigo.ie) with camping, bike rental and great food; breakfasts of baked scones and porridge are included in the price, and dinners are also available. It makes a perfect base for walking in the national park. Bog Week (the weekend leading up to the first Monday in June) and Sea Week (the weekend leading up to the last Monday in October) see Letterfrack at its liveliest, when a heady mix of conservationists and musicians descend upon the place for field trips, conferences and sessions.