Without your own vehicle, it can be difficult to reach the most interesting mountains in these parts. One place you can get to by bus is the small village of ALLEGHE. The lake here was created after a huge rock avalanche in the eighteenth century – a common occurrence in the area. Now a peaceful summer and winter resort, Alleghe borders the northeastern edge of the lake, its aquamarine waters reflecting the pine forests around. Towering above is Monte Civetta, essentially Alleghe’s main attraction, and the village makes a good base in between walks or climbs. The best of several two-star hotels in Alleghe is the Alpenrose, a five-minute walk up from the village centre at Via Coldai 85 (tel 0437.723.929; L120,000-150,000/61.98-77.47); otherwise the Garni La Nava, Corso Italia 43 (tel 0437.523.340; L90,000-120,000/46.48-61.98) is in a good position right beside the lake, near the town centre. Camping Alleghe, 2km away at Masarè (tel 0437.723.737), is open for the summer and skiing seasons. Places to eat in town include the enoteca in Piazza Kennedy (closed Tues); don’t miss the cakes in the pasticceria on the same square. Also on Piazza Kennedy is the tourist office (Mon-Sat 8.30am-noon & 3.30-6.30pm, Sun 9am-noon; tel 0437.523.333), geared up to provide information on cable cars and difficulty of footpaths; it also sometimes has English-language guides to the _alta via_routes.