CANAZEI is a relatively modern town at the head of the Val di Fassa and, for the area, a buzzing summer and winter resort. It’s from there that you head for the high passes – the Gruppo di Sella for hard trails, or the easier Viel del Pan, opposite Marmolada. The Sella Ronda Card gives use of a selection of lifts and public transport (buses run by the SAD company) around the Gruppo di Sella. It’s available at ski lifts for L30,000/€15.49 per day. Canazei itself makes a good base to stay: La Zondra (tel 0462.601.233; L120,000-150,000/€61.98-77.47) and the _ Ciamorc_ (tel 0462.602.426; L90,000-120,000/€46.48-61.98), are both on Via Pareda, while the Giardino delle Rose (tel 0462.602.221; L90,000-120,000/€46.48-61.98) and Albergo Centrale (tel 0462.602.340; L90,000-120,000/€46.48-61.98) are pleasantly located on via Dolomiti, in the middle of the village; Villa Ester (tel 0462.601.254; L90,000-120,000/€46.48-61.98) is also centrally located, next to the swimming pool. From Canazei a switchback road (of 27 bends) climbs relentlessly for 12km and is often busy with busloads of tourists heading for the scenic Great Dolomites Road , and determined cyclists making the thousand-metre ascent.