Hard under the glowering backdrop of the Monti Aurunci FORMIA is a largely modern town but an important resort during Roman times. Cicero had a villa here, at which he was murdered by Mark Antony’s soldiers in 44 AD for his opposition to the triumvirate that succeeded Caesar. There are good beaches to the north of the town centre and a tourist office at Viale Unita d’Italia 30-34 (summer Mon-Sat 8.30am-2pm & 5-8pm, Sun 9am-1pm; winter Mon, Wed, Fri-Sun 8.30am-2pm, Tues & Thurs 8.30am-2pm & 5-8pm; tel 0771.771.386). But otherwise Formia is more a stopover than a stop in its own right, with plentiful connections on to Naples, Rome and inland to Cassino, and regular ferries and hydrofoils to Ponza, one of the Pontine Islands. If you’re taking an early boat, the Ariston at Via Cristoforo Colombo 19 (tel 0771.770.405; L90,000-120,000/46.48-61.98) is the most convenient hotel to the harbour but is expensive for what it is, and rather characterless; the Del Golfo, Piazzale Stazione Ferroviaria 1 (tel 0771.790.037; L60,000-90,000/30.99-46.48), is much cheaper and not a great deal less convenient. For food, check out Zi Anna Mare on Largo Paone (closed Tues) for fresh fish and pizzas served on a terrace.