Though only thirty minutes northwest by train, MODENA has a quite distinct identity from Bologna. It proclaims itself the “spiritual capital” of Emilia, highlighting the two cities’ long and sometimes intense rivalry. Indeed, Modena does have a number of claims to fame: its outskirts are fringed with prosperous industry – knitwear and ceramics factories on the surrounding plain make a healthy profit, and Ferrari build their prestige motor cars close by, testing the Formula 1 monsters on the racetrack at nearby Fiorano; Pavarotti is a native of the town and gives regular summer concerts in the Parco Novi Sad near the train station; while the cathedral is considered perhaps the finest Romanesque building in Italy. Of things to see, top of most people’s list are the rich collections of paintings and manuscripts built up by the Este family, who decamped here from Ferrara in 1598, after it was annexed by the Papal States, and ruled the town until the nineteenth century. But really the appeal of Modena is in wandering its labyrinthine old centre, finishing up the day with some good food and nightlife.