The countryside surrounding the Lago Trasimeno is best appreciated from a reclining position on the beach. The low hills make a good scenic backdrop but they’re not really worth exploring, though if you have a car you could pop into PANICALE to the south. It has some picture-postcard views of the lake, plus two easily missed Perugino paintings – the _ Martyrdom of St Sebastian_ and a Madonna and Child – tucked away in the church of San Sebastiano (off Piazza Vittoria; custodian at Piazza del Mercato 13 holds key). During the town’s April festa, thanks to some miraculous plumbing, the fountains run with wine; well worth investigating.