Beppu, Japan Summary

The best approach to BEPPU, on Kyushu’s northeast coast, is on the Yamanami Highway which drops down into town from the western hills. It’s an extraordinary sight: spirals of steam rise from chimneys and billow out of the ground itself in dramatic confirmation that this is one of the world’s most geothermally active regions. Over 100 million litres a day of near-boiling water gush out of more than 3000 springs, to be harnessed for local swimming pools, heating and medicinal purposes or to fill the dozens of public and private baths that make this one of Japan’s most popular onsen resorts. Unashamedly dedicated to pleasure, from the refined to the bawdy, this town of only 130,000 people receives over twelve million visitors a year. Most of these are domestic tourists; many foreigners who come here find Beppu all too tacky, but its sheer vulgarity can also be huge fun – the trick is just to jump in and enjoy yourself.