kristenholly's Reviews

Ambience & exquisite tastes in Calgary

On Calgary’s Prince’s Island Park, where the Bow River passes through downtown Calgary, River Café features “Seasonal Canadian Cuisine.” The restaurant takes its inspiration from its natural setting and has the appearance of a comfortable mountain lodge with an open-hearth fieldstone fireplace and stunning panoramic views of the park and city skyline beyond. With recommendations from friends in Alberta and Saskatchewan alike, my companion and I were excited to experience this award-winning food destination.

River Café strives for knowledgeable and friendly service but can occasionally miss the mark with a bit of pretentiousness. The exquisite food and extensive wine list, however, more than make up for any service faults and this restaurant is an absolute must on a fine dining experience list.

Accessible only on foot, the ambience begins long before actual arrival at the restaurant. The scent of woodsmoke from the fireplace lingers in the park, and the setting is glorious with nature. Early for an eight o’clock reservation, our evening began at the bar. Champagne by the glass, chosen from several options, is a decadent way to unwind after a busy day. After moving to our table, an extremely knowledgeable server led us through the specials and instructed us on the menu. There is a difference between servers who a) know nothing, b) know something, and c) know all. This server was not tripping over words nor did he stumble as he explained the myriad ingredients and cooking methods for many dishes. He was comfortable in his element; this is important when assisting customers with choices between dishes with many uncommon ingredients.

The Fresh Mushroom Tart as an appetizer, with sheep’s milk feta and sherry jelly is the perfect portion size. (This new trend of using jellies in odd places on plates works sometimes and sometimes not – the Crab Cakes with clear lime and lemon aioli served at the bar at the Eau Claire Sheraton is an obvious example of jelly not belonging on the plate.) This was an instance where the sherry flavour went well with the feta but the texture of a jelly didn’t work. The Herb Crusted Pacific Halibut with fiddlehead greens, chive gnocchi, pea shoot, and Parmesan salad was recommended by the concierge at our hotel, and did not disappoint. Halibut is easy to overcook, so it is a pleasure to enjoy it perfectly grilled and tender. Placed atop a steamed fiddlehead salad and flavourful chive gnocchi, the dish was a perfect balance of texture and flavour. BC Sablefish with king oyster mushrooms, dashi braised bok choy, and fennel slaw is a memorable Asian take on an oily cold water fish. Harvested in the deep clear waters far off the coast of BC, the sablefish or black cod, as it is also known, is a premium product which chefs prize for its pearly white flesh, large velvety flakes and sweet, rich flavour. Neither too salty nor too sweet, the aromatic sauce was complemented by the crunchy fennel slaw. To finish, Rhubarb and Apple Tatin with fig and anise ice cream and rhubarb coulis was superb, as only freshly picked spring rhubarb grown in the garden of the River Café can be. The River Café has that great ambience where the sound heard is that of voices, not booming music. No table is a bad table, as the panoramic opening windows provide a wonderful view of the park and river. With a philosophy that embraces organic, local, and sustainable food sourcing, The River Café exudes the positive energy that comes with responsible stewardship.

Reviewed on: July 09, 2006