Entirely surrounded by South Africa and sometimes mistaken for one of apartheid’s ill-conceived semi-states, the aptly named “mountain kingdom” of Lesotho (pronounced Le-sue-toe) is, in fact, proudly independent of and very different in character to its dominant neighbour. One refreshing physical (and psychological) contrast is the almost total absence of fences in Lesotho, which means you can hike into the upland regions at will, while meeting some of the most hospitable people of the region. The other thing you’ll notice pretty quickly is that Lesotho is virtually treeless, with the exception of the invasive and water-hungry eucalyptus and the peach trees introduced by French missionaries a century ago. Indeed, the country – once the grain basket of the region – is in deep ecological trouble, and acres of irreplaceable topsoil, loosened by decades of over-farming, are washed away down its rivers each year.