Maseru, Lesotho Summary

Sprawling MASERU, the nation’s capital and only big town, spills east from the Caledon River, which marks the border with South Africa. Maseru’s older buildings, as well as some stylish new ones, are built from well-crafted local sandstone, now recognized as the town’s vernacular building material, though a number of ill-thought-out concrete box buildings diminish the effect, and unfortunately dominate the skyline. Most of the daytime action happens on or around the Kingsway, the road which runs through town, getting more and more downmarket and lively as it heads east towards the cathedral. It is along Kingsway, particularly in the less-affluent sections further up town, where you will see the charred shells of shopping centres looted in the riots of 1998. Some were quickly demolished and redeveloped into bright, modern malls, but others provide a backdrop to lively street stalls and hawkers, who have undoubtedly profited from the demise of their more institutionalized competitors. The tension that brought about the riots has dissipated, and as long as you take the precautions you would in any other city on the continent, you can walk around here comfortably.