Southwest of New Orleans lies the city of Houma, with a population of 39,000 people. It is set amid the dark shadowy water of Louisiana’s alligator-infested swamps. Because of the surrounding water, Houma is often referred to as “the Venice of Louisiana.” The city’s sugar, oil, and medical industries have been overshadowed by a newer source of revenue— tourism. Over the past 10 years, travelers from New Orleans have been flocking to Houma to embark on a Cajun swamp tour. The “gator dollar” is now big business, with as many as nine outfitters taking visitors on a journey through a world of alligators and Spanish mosscovered cypress trees. The swamplands are also a natural habitat for egrets, herons, cranes, and pelicans, which nest in the bulrush, together with turtles and snakes. Tours are mostly led by French-speaking Cajun guides so the emphasis is not on listening, but on viewing.

The sudden emergence of a snapping and thrashing alligator is what most visitors hanker for.

Houma dates back to 1822, when the area was first settled by displaced Acadians from Nova Scotia. Of interest in Houma’s historic district is the Terrebonne Museum, located in a former antebellum plantation home on Museum Drive. Featuring the region’s history and artifacts, the museum also houses the plantation’s original slave quarters.

On Park Avenue is the Bayou Terrebonne Waterlife Museum, more appropriate for children and those interested in the region’s flora and fauna. The visitor center also arranges guided land and cultural tours, in addition to providing information on the swamp boat tours. One of the best is “A Cajun Man’s Swamp Cruise,” hosted by Black Guidry, a singing, Frenchspeaking Cajun who charms the local alligator population with his favorite song, “Jambalaya.” Houma is serviced by New Orleans International Airport, which is 57 miles north of town.