Homely BELFAST feels like the most lived-in and liveable of the towns along the Maine coast. Here the shipbuilding boom is long since over (and the chicken-processing plant that regularly turned the bay blood red has also gone), and the town has declared the waterfront a historic district, sparing it from over-commercialization and condo development. As you stroll around, look out for the old-fashioned Greyhound and Western Union office (complete with jukebox) and any number of whitewashed Greek Revival houses. Belfast was a lively center in the 1960s, a fact still reflected in its stores, community theater groups, festivals and the WBYA (101.7 FM) radio station. However, except for its several eating establishments and one cinema, most businesses close early in the evening.