MIRI is a fast-growing town, with a significant expat community and a strong Chinese character. For tourists it’s the main departure point for independent and organized trips into Gunung Mulu National Park and the route north to Brunei and Sabah. Miri’s old town around Jalan China in the west of town is the most enjoyable area to wander around. It’s packed with cafés and shops, and there’s a wet fish market and a Chinese temple at the top of Jalan China. The wide road running east from here and parallel to the river, Jalan Bendahara, is the simplest route into the new town area. The shopping centre Wisma Pelita, south of the old town on Jalan Padang, includes the Pelita Book Centre, on the first floor, which has English-language books on Sarawak, and Longhouse Handicraft Centre, on the top floor, which sells rattan bags, pua kumbu (tie-died) textiles and carvings. Directly south of the adjacent bus station is the padang, on whose border lies Tamu Muhibbah (daily 6am-4pm), the town’s jungle produce market, where Orang Ulu come downriver to sell rattan mats, tropical fruits, rice wine and even jungle animals.