You’ll pay for Mamma Maria’s perfect blend of updated Italian favorites and the nouvissimo of Cucina Novella, but you won’t get a finer dining experience in the restaurant-sotted North End. There are no checkered tablecloths, despite the homey name, in the intimate dining rooms overlooking busy little North Square. The delicate hand-cut ravioli may wrap around smoked sturgeon or another unexpected filling, and scallops, perfectly seared with buttery interiors, might be served with a lobster-infused risotto. It’s all in the detail at Mamma Maria: The ciacciatore sauce is made with wild boar and the cheeses on the board are all from small cheese-makers in Italy. Valet parking is a big plus, since curbside spaces are scarcer than Wiener schnitzel in the North End. Reservations are essential.