Located along the massive northern stretch of I-80, Elko is the town that everyone drives through, but seldom stops in. But this town is worth stopping for. It sits right in the heart of the state’s cowboy country amid a herd of pickups and a sea of Stetsons. This is how the West once was, and its 19,000 residents remain determined to preserve their heritage.

Elko is surrounded by some brilliant desert scenery and jagged mountain ranges. South of the town are the Ruby Mountains where horseback riding and hiking trails along the Humboldt River provide plenty of recreational opportunities. The town itself is a mixture of ranchers, Basque sheepherders, cattle barons, and the occasional dude from Reno.

In 1868, Elko was primarily a terminus for the Central Pacific Railroad, which transported minerals from the surrounding mines. By the turn of the twentieth century, Elko harbored several brothels and saloons before the mines began to decline. Answering the call of Nevada’s burgeoning casinos in the 1940s, Hollywood started to showcase glittering acts in town. Bing Crosby went further and purchased the Elko County Ranch, a rather sizable chunk of grazing land on the fringe of town.

The Northeastern Nevada Museum in Elko displays a host of regional pioneer artifacts, including a saloon bar and a dandy pair of boots owned by a notorious cattle rustler. The industrious owner had the boots fitted with slick cow hooves so he could avoid detection when gathering a stolen herd. The Western Folklife Center carries on Elko’s cowboy heritage at the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering in January, where the ritual of campfires and singing cowboys preserves the myth of the Old West. Formerly the Pioneer Saloon and Hotel, the center offers a fine selection of cowboy paraphernalia for sale while the J.M. Capriola Company on Fifth Street sells the best buckaroo outfits in the state.

Seventy miles west along I-80, toward Winnemucca, is Battle Mountain, site of a major fight in 1861 between the Shoshone tribe and the settlers. The Trail of the 49ers Interpretive Center displays pioneer artifacts from their westward journey to the California gold mines. The National Basque Festival, a three-day festival, is held on the July 4th weekend.

Buses and trains connect to Reno and Salt Lake City.