While most New York bars and restaurants seem to be fighting it out for top honors as the most post-PoMo place in town, Gramercy Tavern clings to a more rustic atmosphere. The moment you walk in you are greeted by the warmth and aroma emanating from the Tavern’s wood-burning oven. If you are able to score reservations, you can make your way to the main dining room where jackets are suggested but not required. If you are lucky enough not to have reservations, you can sip on a glass of Pinot while you wait for a table in the ever-casual seated bar. There is no doubt that Gramercy Tavern has a scene all its own. It is, after all, the favored destination of quite a few New York celebs and business tycoons. The atmosphere isn’t thick with tension and stress as it is in so many New York haunts, though. Perhaps it is the communal feel of the bar or the age of the brownstone-laden neighborhood surrounding the Gramercy that adds an air of relaxation to the environment. Chef/owner Tom Colicchio has done his best to add unfamiliar accents to standard dishes. The result is a menu filled with culinary curios like sea urchin crabmeat ragout, coconut tapioca, and a course that will introduce you to cheeses you never knew existed. The service and staff at the Gramercy reflect the dining; they are prompt, engaging and always enjoyable. Gramercy Tavern’s menu is seasonal, so it does undergo frequent changes. However, with each new incarnation comes a chance for the casual diner to go out on a limb and try something truly daring.