The City of Gentle People lives up to its name. DUMAGUETE, capital of Negros Oriental, lies on the southeast coast of Negros, within sight of the most southerly tip of Cebu Island. It’s off the traditional tourist track, but it’s hard to understand why because it has exquisite architecture, mile upon mile of sandy beach, and pleasant piazzas where residents promenade every evening or indulge in a spot of al fresco ballroom dancing. It’s close to the marine sanctuary of Apo Island where the scuba diving is superlative. North of the city is the small coastal town of Bais, where you can hire boats to go whale- and dolphin-watching. Dive outfits such as Cocktail Divers, based at Yhalason Beach west of the city, organize scuba courses and trips to Apo.