It may be touristy and the hawkers can wear you down, but there’s no denying PUERTO GALERA on the northern coast of Mindoro has a stunning natural harbour, some quiet coves, cheap accommodation and excellent scuba diving. There are dozens of dive outfits in the area making it a good place to strike a deal and get yourself a discount on the going rates. The point of arrival is officially known as Poblacion, though most people refer to it and the surrounding areas as Puerto Galera. From the harbour jeepneys depart for the area’s many beaches. Sabang is the busiest beach, with a mind-boggling variety of accommodation dotted haphazardly along the shoreline and plenty of choices for eating. Neighbouring Small La Laguna and Big La Laguna are rather more laid-back and family-oriented. Twenty minutes by jeepney the other side of Puerto Galera harbour, to the east, is White beach. Accommodation here is strictly of the bamboo-hut variety and for meals you’ll have to eat what you are given: it might be catch of the day or a tin of sardines. Five minutes beyond White beach by jeepney is Talipanan beach. Both are good bases for trekking in the mountains. One of the many locals who earn a little bit extra as guides will gladly take you to Talipanan or Aninuan falls.