The provincial capital PUERTO PRINCESA is the only major urban sprawl in Palawan, with 120,000 residents and an area that actually makes it the second biggest city in the Philippines after Davao. Rural areas 60km north fall under its administration. Puerto Princesa is also clean, green and gun-free, thanks partly to local mayor Edward Hagedorn, a larger-than-life character who has firmly nailed his flag to the environmental mast. Residents and visitors alike are fined for spitting and littering. Throwing your cigarette butt on the pavement brings swift justice in the form of a P200 fine, a small fortune to many locals and therefore a significant deterrent. The town’s main artery is the narrow Rizal Avenue, which runs from the airport on Puerto’s eastern outskirts to the cathedral and the wharf in the west. The distance from end-to-end is only 3km, and tricycles and jeepneys run the length of it, making transport within the town easy.