Rising like a giant white onion above the streets of the City, St. Paul’s Cathedral not only dominates the skyline, but also fills it with a calm splendor. There’s been a Cathedral dedicated to St. Paul on this site since 604 A.D., the current building being cathedral number four. It rose like a phoenix from the ashes of London after cathedral number three was destroyed in the Great Fire of London in 1666. Designed by one of Britain’s foremost architects, Sir Christopher Wren, the current St. Paul’s Cathedral took 35 years to build, with the first service held there in 1697. Important State occasions are shared between here and Westminster Abbey. The best approach is the newest, by crossing from the south side of the Thames over the river via the Millenium Bridge (or Wobbly Bridge, as the locals call it, even though it doesn’t wobble anymore.) A short climb leads straight to the Cathedral; turn left to arrive outside the elegant entrance steps. The climb to the famous Whispering Gallery is worth every one of the 259 steps up, the result a dizzying bird’s eye view of the floor 99 feet below (but not recommended for the vertigo sufferer). Go with a friend and try out the acoustics under this famous 65,000-ton stone dome, where a word whispered on one side can be heard on the far side of the Gallery. Music lovers should try to hear the magnificent organ, built in 1695 and played by great musicians including the composer Mendelssohn. Magnificence does come at a price, however; entry is about $16. Stunned tourists can recover from the shock with a traditional afternoon tea complete with home baked scones and clotted cream in the Refectory Restaurant every day from 3 p.m. The Cathedral may be closed for special services; check the Web site before any visit for revised opening times.