Until the 1970s, anyone tracing their British ancestry would come to Somerset House to check the public records of births, marriages and deaths. Today, this palatial building houses three great collections of art, arranged around an elegant courtyard with cooling fountain jets in summer and an ice rink and ice climbing wall in winter. The Hermitage Rooms display treasures from the famous St. Petersburg-based museum, in a series of changing exhibitions. These exhibitions are set in rooms that recreate the splendor of the Winter Palace, albeit scaled down. The Gilbert Collection is a treasure-trove of gold and silver objects, ranging from intricate snuff boxes to magnificent silver wine coolers. The crowning glory at Somerset House is the Courtauld Institute of Art Gallery, a breathtaking collection of art in an elegant and relaxing atmosphere. Despite the vast range of paintings on display, it’s the Post Impressionists who steal the show. Gallery Eight is filled with sinuous sculptures by Degas, which dazzle with his exquisite attention to detail. Find Cezanne’s The Card Players, _and whatever angle you view it from, the card table is always pointing toward you. The star attraction is Manet’s _Bar at the Follies-Bergère voted one of the three greatest paintings in Britain by the UK public. Look for the acrobat’s feet dangling in the top left corner. Go on any Monday between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. and entry is free (except for bank holidays).