Fine dining rooms in major hotels can be somewhat hit-and-miss affairs, but Foliage at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Hyde Park is a definite hit. Many hotels outsource the fine dining, but that’s not the case here: David Nicholls is in charge of all the food served at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, and it shows in the meticulous attention to detail and pride from all concerned. The refurbished restaurant features a series of intimate rooms that allow for a calm and relaxed atmosphere. The staff is, without exception, cheerful and helpful, and always professional. The main dishes are well-judged and perfectly presented, incorporating varied ingredients with a touch of Asian influence, such as slow-roasted pork belly with Asian-spiced marmalade and pak choi. Starters tease the taste buds with combinations such as roast scallops with turnip puree, creamed parsley, verjus glaze and a fricassee of ceps and snails, or even battered frogs-legs drumsticks with bacon and spinach purée. Desserts take a more adventurous road, combining unusual ingredients such as pearl barley and grue (cocoa bean husks) into mousses and ice-creams. Prices reflect the excellent location overlooking the leafy treetops of Hyde Park and the number of staff employed just to escort you from the main entrance to the restaurant. You’ll get little change for $150, even if you go easy on the wine. However, the three-course set lunch with unlimited wine (yes, unlimited) is about half that price.