Who would have anticipated that the owner of the “basic bench” chain of Wagamama eateries, Alan Yau, would win a Michelin star for his upmarket restaurant Hakkasan? Finding the restaurant can be a little challenging, as Hanway Place is not exactly the most inviting of streets at night. However, press on and you’ll descend into Hakkasan via a slate-lined stairwell that lures you down into the cool blue dining area below. Hakkasan is so popular that you only get a two-hour dining slot, and chances are they will need the table after this time. Don’t be put off by this and the busy, bustling staff; you should have plenty of time to enjoy your food. Apart from the excellent dim sum, the menu includes belly of pork with dried fish, venison in a sweet onion sauce, steamed crab in Shao Hsing wine and roast duck with mango and lemon sauce. Hakkasan is also about fusing Chinese style to Western ingredients, so there are also rib-eye steaks, poussin, ostrich and lobster on offer. Lunch will set you back a bit, and dinner even more. If you just want drinks, no problem; the great and good of the media world often roll out from the Ling Ling bar after sampling too many of the range of cocktails on offer. Just don’t ask for a glass of tap water; apparently, they don’t serve these, preferring you have designer water flown in from Norway. No such problems at Wagamamas, Mr. Yau…