The food at this elegant Japanese restaurant adds a new dimension to the traditional izakaya style of eating. The peaceful entrance of stone, water and trees lead into a dining area of cool classic design, with the kitchen alongside open to public view. For a real slice of the sushi action (pun intended) sit at the counter, where you can watch the chefs slice, dice and roll exquisite morsels in front of your very eyes. (Not that you have to eat it; the full menu is available at these seats.) For a more intimate atmosphere, up to 12 can sit at the chef’s table and watch the chefs working at the robata grill. The noisy chatter and cries of “Darling!” from the in-crowd and minor celebs knocking back the 30 different varieties of sake or fruit-based cocktails at the bar make this restaurant buzz in the evenings. If you prefer peace and quiet in which to enjoy the food, come at lunchtime. Zuma is also reassuringly aware that not every diner has deep pockets, so the menu mixes high-price luxury with excellent traditional items. The sushi and sashimi choices include the California maki with crab, avocado and tobiko, or a more fiery hamachi roll with yellowtail tuna, cucumber, sesame, chilli daikon, ginger and rock chive. For the gold credit card brigade, there is miso fumi no foagla ume boshi zoe, seared miso-marinated fois gras with ume boshi compote to you and me.