The columns of St. Paul’s church dominate the end of Inigo Jones’ elegant piazza, Covent Garden, where street performers demand your attention with crazy stunts. If you can’t see past the crowds, pop onto the terrace of the Punch & Judy pub above for a better view – and a pint. The old fruit and veg market departed back in the 1970s, but just behind the piazza, barrows laden with nifty craft bargains and antiques stretch back under the roof toward the newly revamped Royal Opera House. Head this way if it’s wet, because beyond Ponti’s, (an Italian classic café; grab a coffee or ice-cream as you pass) you’ll find the street performers you missed earlier doing their stuff in the dry. Don’t sit on the benches at the front unless you want to be involved. Intimately. The Jubilee Market halls at the south side have all the atmosphere of a cattle shed, but the masses of stalls are great for presents that avoid the usual tacky tourist themes. There are plenty of eateries to choose from at Covent Garden, but for exquisite cakes head for Café Valerie on Russell Square. The leading lights of London’s literary scene have met here to chat over a cup of tea since 1725!