Central Vietnam’s dominant port and its fourth largest city, Da Nang harbours few sights beyond the exceptional Cham Museum, but is an unexpectedly amiable place and a major transport hub with air connections as well as road and rail links. In the American War it served as a massive South Vietnamese airbase and played host to thousands of US troops as well as refugees searching for work. But walking around today, it’s the earlier, French presence which is more apparent in the leafy boulevards and colonial-style houses.