Located 100km east of Hanoi on the Cua Cam River, one of the main channels of the Red River Estuary, HAIPHONG has long been North Vietnam’s principal port, and its history runs the gamut from major seventeenth-century trading centre through bombardment by both the French and the Americans. These days it’s a small, orderly city of broad avenues and subtle, cosmopolitan charms, with good ferry links to Cat Ba Island and Hong Gai (for Ha Long Bay), but not much else of interest. The city’s crescent-shaped nineteenth-century core lies between the curve of the Tam Bac River and the loop of the train tracks. To the north of the main artery, Dien Bien Phu, you’ll find broad avenues and colonial architecture. To the south is the merchants’ quarter, these days a dilapidated area of street markets between Tran Trinh Street and Cho Sat. Opposite Cho Sat on the south side of Tam Bac Lake, no. 124 Nguyen Duc Canh houses Hang Kenh Carpet Factory, where you can watch the carpets being hand-woven on old wooden looms (Mon-Sat 7-11.30am & 1-5pm, Sun 7-11.30am). The temple of Den Nghe, about ten minutes’ walk east of the factory along Me Linh, is noted for its carvings, particularly on the massive stone table in the first courtyard.