Despite its rather drab and functional appearance, one of the best places for visitors to experience the vibrant folk traditions of the West Virginia mountains is ELKINS, the biggest town in northern West Virginia, which lies just west of the Canaan Valley. The Augusta Heritage Center, which is part of Davis and Elkins College at 100 Sycamore St (tel 304/637-1209), works to keep Appalachian cultural traditions alive in music, arts and crafts. Concerts and events are held throughout the summer, and there are celebrations of dulcimer-playing in April and fiddle music in October, but its major annual showcase is mid-August’s Augusta Festival. This offers public workshops in such diverse down-home pursuits as banjo-playing, blacksmithing, quilt-making and folk dancing, and after dark, performers get together for a nightly hoedown, featuring storytellers, bluegrass bands and all-round good times.